FOR THE DO-IT-YOURSELF DUCATI OWNER |
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JET KIT / POD FILTER / BATTERY BOX INSTALL PLUS FLOAT HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT |
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$70-220 |
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Ruler (in mm), Dial Calipers (optional), Phillips Screwdrivers (Large and Small), Flat Blade Screwdrivers (Large, Small and Extra Small), 6mm-12mm End Wrenches, Spray Lube, Tin Snips, Drill and Bits, Marker and Tape, Pliers, and Some Other Stuff I Forgot About... |
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Well, I worked my butt off and the install is now finished. I must say that it was way more work than I thought it would be. I took over 130 pictures, and thinned it down to what you see here. All my testing so far indicates that this was a very worthwhile mod, though. Special thanks goes to Chris Kelley at California Cycelworks. Thanks for all the parts and trouble! There has been tremendous interest in this setup, and I failed to mention earlier that I ordered the filters (K&N RU-1750's) through Chris at California Cycleworks, they ran about $40 each. I also ordered the Factory Pro jet kit and new needle jets through Chris. I have also seen the filters in the Chaparral Racing catalog for a bit less, but I prefer Chris' friendly and personal service over theirs. |
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I had to show this pic first, just because it gives a good idea of how much work it took. Making a battery box is a long process, but as you can see from the pics it is well worth it. The box took 80% of the time involved (I made 3 different ones!), but I didn't want to cut my original piece, and I wanted to flip the coils around and mount them on the back of my new box. It looks like it's just a piece of flat metal bent in two spots, but it's more than that. The front top edge is rolled, and notched to clear the battery cables and the hold-downs are aluminum strap bent to perfection :) |
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As you can see, it is one trick install. The filters just look wicked mean, they sound awesome, the carbs are SO much easier to service now, it runs cooler without the box blocking everything up, and I saved some weight on top of it all. <<<CLICK FOR A FULLSIZE PIC |
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What I fixed: Changed the float level from the stock 9mm and 12mm (yes, they were uneven) to the Factory Pro recommended 14mm. Main jets are 142.5 (largest supplied, 132.5 is stock), pilot jets are 42.5 (40 is stock, 45 is also optional). Needle position changed from # 4 (!) to #2, and the optional lighter springs were used. Throttle cable mounts were fixed, as they were previously tightened on crooked. K&N RU-1750 pod filters installed. |
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PERFORMANCE IMPROVEMENTS: Overall power and grunt seems maybe slightly better, but the way the power is delivered is vastly improved. It is so much smoother, crisper, and stable. No more surging, bucking, spitting, stumbling, abrupt throttle response, etc. Accelerating from a stop, it no longer surges when it recovers from the clutch engaging. In other words, I used to get a stumble after I got going from a stop, but now it is very smooth all the way. Parking lot cruising is much smoother, no lurching. It also pulls a lot stronger way down low. It now pulls strong in low gear at low RPM and doesn't bog as much. Uphill in 2nd gear at 25MPH is smooth, and no downshift is necessary. Cruising at 25MPH in 2nd, 3,500 RPM, I whack the throttle open and it goes, fast I might add, without a hesitation or pause as there used to be. Power shifting at WOT stumbles depending on clutch technique. I haven't got a lot of full power runs in because it only requires two gears to get to a good clip, but I bet I'll need to reduce the main jet size. Sometimes I get a super clean run all the way to 100MPH in three gears, other times it'll fall flat if I shift to fourth. I'll give it some more testing before I mess with anything. Take-offs from stoplights and low RPM cruising in parking lots is greatly improved. Before it was very hard to keep a slow, steady throttle, it was ALWAYS jerky. Now it is smoother. Fuel economy increased from 33 MPG to almost 48MPG! Plus, I can now use 87 octane. Previously I had to use 92 or else it would run really rough. |
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The battery box in it's second-to-final form. The previous two (shown later) just plain blew. This is the best one by far. It's a way thicker gauge, is very sturdy, and it was fairly simple to make. I was worried that it would retain heat compared to the plastic, but I've reached in there when it's running and it's only warm to the touch. The same goes for the filters- I was going to make a heat shield, but at idle in heavy traffic in 95 degree weather the air by the filters wasn't hot at all. The wood piece under the battery has since been replaced with rubber sheet. |
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This shows how the solenoid was moved up and away from the head further- it previously rested right on the head. It also shows the re-used mounting rubbers with metal inserts (between the box and frame tabs). |
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I took a piece of aluminum strap and bent it into a twist, mounted one end to the tab for the airbox mounting as shown by the arrow, bent it around the back of the new battery box and mounted it there. It really stiffens the whole unit up. The base is mounted using the original holes and some rubber stoppers for cushioning. |
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The main fuse was simply zip-tied to the battery box, and the wires were zip tied neatly out of the way. |
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Here's the semi-permanent rubber tray setup I concoted. I couldn't find a large enough sheet in town, so I had to cut up a smaller piece. When I find a bigger one I will replace it, but this works fine for now. |
This shows how the horn was moved from the outside bottom right to the inside center. You can also see the new drain tubes for the float bowls and the wacky green/white/red zip tie job! |
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So, with all that said, let's get started on the install: ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ |
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Lift the tank and then disconnect the battery. Pop off the connections going to the ignition modules, then slide those off of the mounting bracket. Make sure you note which module is connected to which set of wires. |
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Now pop off the coil mounting bracket from the airbox. |
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Start labeling which wires go where, including the spark plug wires and which one goes to the horizontal and which one to the vertical. In my setup, I mounted the coils to the back of the battery box, but had to switch the ignition modules to the other sides so that the wires were long enough, and that gets confusing. |
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Now remove the mounting screws for the battery box with an allen and wrench. |
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Remove the hose clamps from the battery box to the carbs. |
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Now for the last airbox mounting bolt. |
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This is the fun part- you have all the mounting bolts disconnected, but the box won't come out- it hits on the ignition switch. One time, I took out every screw from the top of the airbox and took the top part off, but that was a joke! It took a good hour to put it back together once it was back in. The next time I just removed the ignition switch. |
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Take your allen and unscrew the bolts from the top cover of the switch. Then once it's off, you can hold the long nuts on top while unscrewing the bolts from the bottom side with an allen. |
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Then it comes right off. The switch goes back on as easy as it came off- first mount it to the frame, then install the cover back on. |
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With the box off you can finally remove the carbs. Disconnect the hose clamp from the intake runners to the carbs, and pop them loose. Then when you can maneuver them up, slide the choke over and gently remove the cable end from its hole. |
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Now remove the choke cable mounting bracket and free the cable from the carb. |
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Disconnect the fuel hose, but be prepared for gas to come splashing out. At this point, you should be able to turn the carbs upside down. Put the float bowl drain hoses into a container because when it is flipped the gas will gush out. |
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With the carbs turned over you can remove the throttle cables from their holes. Be sure to label which cable goes to which position |
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Now you can loosen the cable adjusters from their mounts using your wrench. Once loose they will slide right off. |
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At this point I started bulding the new battery box. The first one was shaped kind of like the old box, where the coils would mount on a kind of shelf. That didn't look very good, so I made a second one that worked pretty well but was too big. The third one was a much heavier gauge steel, and fit much better. I had to use an air grinder to cut it because it was too thick for shears. |
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Here are the measurements. I bought the sheet in an 8x24" dimension, so very little cutting was required. You can either cut down the front wall so it is 6", or bend it over like I did. You'll need to cut an indentation into each side for the battery straps to clear. You'll need two long (over 2") M5 screws to thread into the frame tabs, two M5 nuts for the coil bracket bolts, two nuts and bolts for the starter solenoid mounting (standard or metric, doesn't matter), a nut and bolt for the stabilizer rod mounting to the frame (again, standard or metric), 1/8" aluminum strap (probably two 36" pieces), and two 1/4" flat head machine screws and 1/4" wingnuts for the hold down straps. You'll also need some rubber for the bottom of the tray to prevent vibration. There's no sense in showing the step by step of making it, because it is really simple, and each bike has the mounting tabs, solenoids, etc. in different places. Each bike's box will need to be custom, sorry! |
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This is the box with the battery removed. You can see that it is just a c-shaped bracket, 8x24" and mounted to the original box mounting tabs. The red stuff is rubber material to absorb vibration, the black rubber is the OE tray. The third pic shows the tray without the rubber pads. |
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The coil mounting bracket was re-used, and attached to the battery tray with the original bolts, but new metric nuts were needed to secure the bolts (it originally had nuts mounted in the plastic airbox). The two arrows pointing to screws are the starter solenoid mounting screws. The third pic shows an arrow pointing to the starter solenoiud, and also to the hole drilled in the box to accomodate the zip tie for the main fuse. Of course, the minor details vary from year to year, so yours will need to be custom to fit your needs. |
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Finally, this shows the little notches I had to cut in the box for the hold down straps, and also the aluminum strap coming out from underneath and bent up on each side to stop the battery from sliding side to side. It is mounted directly between the tray and the mounting rubbers (which are the little round rubber pieces with metal inserts that you need to scavenge from the original airbox). A new, longer screw goes from the top of the new battery tray, through the rubbers, and threads into the original mounting tabs on the frame. |
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Back to the jet kit- I then went to my kitchen table to rebuild the carbs. They were awfully clean, so I just just used a little choke cleaner to get them spruced up (outside the house of course). Then I laid out all the parts to get an idea of what I was doing. Then, most importantly, I read the instructions to figure out what size jets and what needle position I should use. |
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Then I popped off the top covers that house the needle / diaphragm slide assembly. |
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Take extra care not to lose this o-ring, it's not secured to anything and just falls out (don't forget to put it back before installing the covers). |
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I replaced my thick stock springs with the Factory supplied springs, which provide a better part throttle "snap" as they call it. |
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Now you'll need to remove the stock nylon washer and circlip from the old needle. It's kind of like a baseball bat with donuts (mmm.... donuts....)- the washer has to slide off towards the tapered end. Don't place the needle against something hard and push down- it will surely ruin the tip and you may need to switch back to them later, you never know. |
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First install the new circlip on the Factory needle in the desired position. I chose #2 for a slightly leaner part throttle mixture. #2 means the second position going from the large end, not the needle end. #2, therefore, places the needle further into the bore of the needle jet (needle valve, emulsion tube, whatever), meaning less fuel flows by under part throttle cruising. Slide the nylon washer onto the new needles and then put on the stock steel washer. |
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Stick the new needle assembly back into the diaphragm, then slide it into the carb's bore. At the same time, make sure the needle goes into the needle jet easily and doesn't get crooked and bound up. It's probably a good idea to replace the needle jets before doing this or at the same time (read down below on how to do that). Factory recommends replacing them every 5,000 miles on Mikunis because they wear fast and get "ovaled" by the needle. This allows more fuel in at part throttle and causes a rich mixture. Mine probably could have been reused, but I didn't know that without tearing the carbs down, so I just ordered new ones. |
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With the diaphragm slides in, place the new springs over the protrusion in the cover and into the bore of the diaphragm, then button it up. |
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Replace the stock screws with the Factory Pro ones and you're done on that end. Be sure not to overtighten them, they only need to be snug. |
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After that, I popped off the float bowls. Good luck getting the screws off without damaging them, which is a good reason the Factory Pro kit came with new screws. |
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The first thing to do is remove the screw holding the tab that holds the main jet in. |
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With the tab out of the way, the main jet should pop out. It's a tight fit, so be careful not to damage the o-ring when pulling it out. |
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The pic is blurry, but it's showing that you need to remove the o-ring from the main jet and place it on the new jet. Be careful! It's small and could rip easily. |
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With the o-ring on your new jet, push it back into the hole. I used the supplied 142.5 because my exhaust is partially cored and I'm using the pod filters. I'm still gathering info, but it's very possible that I should have used a smaller main. |
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The pilot jet was next, but it already had the 42.5 that I was planing on using. It's weird because 40 is stock- I don't know where the 42.5 came from. 45 came with the kit as an option, but I'm shooting more for economy and smooth running than power. It goes in and out with a screwdriver (a smaller size, a little bigger than a jeweler's screwdriver). When screwing it back in be GENTLE. You don't want to crack it. |
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Then you can put the tab back on. You'll have to hold it in place while tightening the screw so that it doesn't move to the side. |
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Now set the idle mixture screws. I set them at 2.75 turns out as recommended. |
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To replace the needle jets, first remove the screw cap with a 6mm wrench. |
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Once that is off, you can remove the jet holder assembly- it slides off easily. |
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Then you can push the needle jet down and out of the carb. It goes back in the same way; there is a slot that has to line up in the bore of the carb and on the holder. Once they're back in, place the cover back on and screw on the cap GENTLY. Brass cracks easily. Just make it snug. |
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Now for the fun part- the float levels! It's imperative that you set these because they have as big an effect on fuel delivery as the jets. It's also next to impossible to do it with the carbs on the bike, so you might as well plan on taking them off. |
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First for a little float theory. The carb on the left has a drawing of where the float bowl normally is (pink line). The blue line is the fuel level inside the bowl. The float is mounted on a pivot point, and can move up and down with the fuel level (hence the name float). It's the float's job to keep an adequate amount of fuel in the bowls for sudden increases in power (you don't want the bike to die because of lack of fuel), |
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butt also shutoff the fuel flow from the tank if they get too full (so it doesn't flood). As the level rises (such as at idle when the engine doesn't demand fuel), it pushes the float up, which in turn pushes up the metering deal thinger (I want to say rod, but Ducati doesn't call it that) into its bore to plug the fuel delivery passage and cut off the fuel flow. If the level rises too much, the fuel can flow out of the drain tubes located inside the bowls. If the fuel level lowers (such as under acceleration) the float sinks, pulling the metering dealer out and letting fuel flow into the bowls. |
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It's well known that Ducati doesn't always set the float height correctly from the factory, and they're usually too rich. This illustrates how they were set too rich, and also unevenly! |
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This shows what should happen when you push on the floats. The metering dealy things have springs on the very ends. As you push down, they will compress, but should spring back up. You want to check the height with them sprung up. |
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Measuring the height can be tricky. Factory Pro sells a tool, but I used the following three methods to triple check my work. First I aligned the top of the float with the point on this caliper and measured that. Then I used a ruler and sighted across the top. |
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The most accurate method was using the ruler in conjunction with something flat across the top of the float, such as this caliper. Whatever the method, I went with the recommended 14mm. |
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To adjust the height, first remove this pin to let the float come off. |
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Then take a screwdriver and gently bend the tab up or down to raise or lower the height. It's really hard to explain how to do this and how much to do it, but you will see once it's apart. |
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Once they're set you can pop the floats back on and put the covers on. Use the new screws because the old ones are junk. Make sure the floats raise and lower without the metering dealers binding up and make sure they are still springy. |
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While I was doing the kit, I decided to move the horn up into the space inside the frame. |
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I needed to move the mounting tab around to the other side for it to fit, but it was easy after I loosened the top nut. |
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Then I attached the cables back in their positions and put the carbs on. Everything should go on like it came off, there are no surprises. Once on, check that the throttle cables operate smoothly and the blades open fully. Adjusting the mounts on the carbs shouldn't be necessary, all the fine adjusting should be done at the handle. You want a slight amount of slack at the grip, forward and backward, and the blades should open fully. If not, use the adjuster screw to loosen or slacken the cable (top or bottom) until it is right. Follow the procedure in my throttle cable adjustment article. |
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That only left the drain hose- I wanted a trick and clean install, so I wanted all the hoses to merge into one (the two float drain tubes and this drain tube). But, they are different sizes. |
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So, I heated it and slid it over a large screwdriver to stretch it. Then it slid on easily. |
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Final assembly was easy. I mounted everything to the battery box, checked the throttle cables, routed the drain hoses, reconnected the fuel hose, routed the breather hoses for the carbs off to the side, tightened the runner-to-carb hose clamps, mounted the air cleaners, attached the choke cable, and double checked all the bolts. Once finsihed, it doesn't seem so hard, but the real problems were the float height and the battery box, which is why I went with such a high difficutly level. Not that it's hard to understand, just that it's a pain if you know what I mean. After I fired it up, I let it warm up then synchronized the carbs. That's all it took to get it running. I am still in the info-gathering stage before I do any more tuning. Stay tuned! |
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Related Link: Check out www.factorypro.com for tuning tips and info on their jet kits. |
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This page is in no way associated with Ducati.com, nor is it an entity of Ducati Motor Holding, S.p.A. All content, information, and views expressed herein are those of myself and do not reflect those of Ducati or its affiliates. The "DUCATI" logo and "Circle D" are registered trademarks of Ducati Motor Holding, S.p.A., all other content on this website is copyright 200, Monster Man Productions. |