|
|
|
FOR THE DO-IT-YOURSELF DUCATI OWNER
|
|
|
SUPERBIKE EMISSIONS REMOVAL
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
$25
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Assortment of allen keys, 7and 8mm end wrench, screwdrivers, towel, RTV silicone, vacuum caps, short length of 1/4" tubing, 1/4" plastic "y" connector, hole plug and filter (or kit from Evoluzione), and a bit of patience.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DISCLAIMER- High performance engines (in particular the 998/999 testastretta engines) put out a lot of crankcase pressure which could result in oil being forced out of the breather under certain conditions. This is not normal, but it is possible, that's why I am warning you. In the event oil is forced out, it could get on the tire and result in a crash. Again, it SHOULD not do that (the breather valve is supposed to let air but not oil out), but it could happen. Perform this mod at your own risk. I recommend you keep a very close eye on your engine for signs of oil residue.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Let me first start the article by saying don't remove the emissions- it may be illegal. My location has no requirement for such equipment, so I'm OK. If you live in a locale that requires emissions equipment, like California, you're on your own. Please do some research.
Let me also state that removing the emissions isn't a performance mod, you're not gaining any horsepower (except for maybe the restrictor removal). I did it to shed a bit of fat and to free up some space- with all that enclosed bodywork, the absence of more hoses and containers means that more air will be able to flow across the engine and lead to better cooling. Plus it looks cleaner. The basic principle is the same as on the 2 valve, but it's a bit more time consuming, so let's get started.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
First remove the seat. This went much quicker than I imagined, just pop off the connector for the tail lights, then the little rubber retainer from the two pins, then pull the pins out of the bracket and pull the seat off.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The tank is a little trickier. Remove the retaining bolt with your allen key, then it tilts up in the rear and the front is held in place by a big pin in the front. But, you still need to attack the lines underneath. It may be a good idea to prop up the rear with a block of wood or have a friend help you hold it up.
|
|
|
|
|
This is what you're faced with- a connector for the fuel pump wiring, unplug that gently. Then to remove the two quick disconnect fuel lines, press IN on the release tab, and pull STRAIGHT down. Don't try to twist or pull out at an angle or you could damage
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
the o-ring (which, incidentally, you should have spares of because they NEVER seem to work after one use, they always need replacement). The two green arrows point to holes where the drain tube (right side of picture) and the emissions tube (left side of picture) go. The above image shows my new drain setup (two into one), but as you remove the tank there will be two separate black vacuum lines. They pull right off with no hassle. After that, you can lift the tank up and back, and GENTLY set it down on a towel or something.
|
|
|
|
|
|
At this point you should also reach into the intake runners and undo the retaining clips from the box. That way the lid can lift up without breaking the runners, and the lid can lift up further. To get them back down later, the end goes in, hooks the retainer, and then you snap it back. It's the same kind of clip as on fire extinguishers to get an idea of how it works.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then you can unbolt all six retainers for the bottom of the airbox with your allen key. I tried and tried to get the shower injectors off so the whole piece could come off, but didn't want to break anything. I left it loose and that was enough. I later figured out how easy it was to remove the whole injector, so you'll probably want to do that.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Grasp firmly on both sides of the injector body, then twist to the left and pull up. it is held on there by two tabs and pegs, kind of like a fuel cap.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And then it just pulls right out and you can pull the airbox up much further than is shown in the following pictures, thus saving much more time and allowing better access. To put the injectors back on, simply put them back down in the airbox at the angle you pulled them out, and twist them back to the right until the pegs on the injectors lock under the retaining tabs on the lower portion. It's hard to get a pic of, but you'll know it when you see it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Now one of the fun parts- while holding the rear of the cover up, reach in with your wrench and remove the two PCV box retaining bolts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then unscrew the hose from the PCV valve on the rear of the engine block.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After that, push out the hose from inside the airbox (it's the oval shaped hole on the right side of the bike). Then, you can (as gently as possible) lift up on the lid and pull the box and hoses out from their cavity. It is very hard, and you need to keep twisting and trying to make it come out as easy as possible. Good luck.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then, install a plug in the now gaping hole in the box, and seal it with some RTV silicone. I believe the size for the 998 is 19mm, although the hole is oval so the sealant is necessary.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here it is removed. Not much, but enough to sap airflow and look like hell.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then you can install your K&N filter. I ordered the K&N and hole plug from Evoluzione, although Summit Racing sells the filter as well. It has a 3/4" opening, is 2" wide, and 1 1/2" high. It's best to go from the top to get the most leverage, and also put some WD-40 on the lip.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then find the hose that you pulled off the tank. This shows the routing all the way back to the evaporative cannister (in green). Then you can pull it out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
To get the box off, press down on the two small tabs, and pull the box upwards. Very easy to get off.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then, the last step is to get the hoses off the runners. Trace the line from the box, back to where it splits into two with a tee, then go to the right side intake runner. It is up and under the cover that you just had to fight with, and this is by the far the hardest part to get off. I didn't have a long end wrench, so I had to reach in there while pulling up on the cover. It took a while, but I finally got the hose clamp loosened. After that, I pulled the line off the nipple, removed the nipple, and capped it with a short M6 screw.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You'll notice I revised my instructions from a vacuum cap to a screw. That's because both of the vacuum caps fell off. I don't know when or where, and I don't know why. Live and learn I guess. The screw works much better.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And here's the left side. This has a little easier access, and it goes down towards the bottom front of the left side of the bike. Again, pull off the line and nipple and plug the hole with an M6 screw.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The nipples came out easily, but it takes a long time since they are in such a tight spot. (The nipples are the little brass inserts in the runner that have a hex towards the back and a very small hole running through them. The whole piece comes out). Once out, coat the screw with RTV silicone and plug the hole for an airtight seal. A vacuum leak robs performance.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And here is that crap removed. Took a bit work, but it cleaned the bike up. I now know the vacuum caps were a bad idea if not clamped tightly on, and I have noticed no bad side effects (like oil all over the back of the crankcase). It actually starts up better when hot since it's not sucking gas fumes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Once all that was done, I took a 1/4" tube, and a 1/4" "T", and stuck it into the existing drain tube. Then I took two 5" or so lengths of tubing, and ran one to each nipple on the tank. That way they both drain into one. This is a necessary step- don't just plug the hole in the tank where the meissions used to go, it could cause a build up in the tank of pressure, or worse. Also, don't leave it uncapped because that could lead to a fire.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
And now, there is one last step for true 'emissions' removal, and that is the huge rubber restrictors in the intakes designed to reduce noise emission. They rob power and are easily removed. Start by stripping off the side fairings and front upper fairing. Then, you'll see the runners have a bunch of screws through them. You'll need to take all the screws out (there's about 30 of them!) to get the runners apart.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Then the reassembly is the same as the reverse, no surprises. Except, be VERY careful with the tank, make sure the gasket at the front goes under the lip of the tank, and install the quick connects gently. Make sure the spring realease is still in the released position by pushing on the tabs as when you took them off (they have a tendency to unrelease, and thereby rip an o-ring upon installation as happened to me). Take it slow, and all will be OK. Remember- take it easy on the electrical conncetors (I somehow ripped a wire out of one of them and had to disassemble it and re-connect it), also don't forget to re-attach the clips holding the intake runners into the box. Good luck.
|
|
|
|
This page is in no way associated with Ducati.com, nor is it an entity of Ducati Motor Holding, S.p.A. All content, information, and views expressed herein are those of myself and do not reflect those of Ducati or its affiliates. The "DUCATI" logo and "Circle D" are registered trademarks of Ducati Motor Holding, S.p.A., all other content on this website is copyright 2006, Monster Man Productions.
|
|